Fell and Process Medium Trees
Over 380mm and upto 760mm
So, felling medium-sized trees over 380mm or up to 760mm? If you are looking to fell bigger trees you are going to need a bigger ticket. Thus the felling and processing of medium trees over 380mm qualification is the course for you. The next level of training in the suite of chainsaw use is felling medium-sized trees over 380mm up to 760mm. You need the ticket for reasons such as:
- tendering for that next contract
- you are working for the Forestry Commission
- the estate, Woodland Trust, National Trust or de veg site has lots of medium trees over 380mm to fell
- utility worker
- council team
Some key points to consider before attending this course are:
- you need to have had lots of practice felling small trees before attending this course. It is not a monkey see monkey do course!
- you must be able to read the situations you are being placed in front of. Such as felling distances and directions
- differences in tree species and fibres and how that impacts the choice of cuts used
- the understanding of parameters such as a 15″ larch at over 90′ (380mm at 30m). Is quite different to a cherry tree in a park at 20″ up to 36′ (500mm at 12m)
- accuracy of your hinges and cuts
- use of winches for twisting out and pulling back of trees
Some of this will be covered during the tree felling course. But you must have prior knowledge and experience of felling trees before attending this next level of training.
Our two-day felling and processing medium trees over 380mm course, allow plenty of time to learn to use winches, wedges. It ensures you have set up the systems safely and correctly. Along with carrying out and practising all that you need for the assessment process on the third day.
On this felling medium-sized trees over 380mm and up to 760mm course you will be learning about:
- the risks of felling larger trees. In short small trees may squash you, bigger trees are likely to kill you if you get it wrong!
- effective use of wedges and how many to use
- mechanical wedges and choices available to you
- use of hand winches and the pros and cons
- dealing with larger product lengths and timber volume
- snedding and delimbing of soft or hardwood
- understanding the importance of industry best practice
- what you need to do in an emergency
- how health and safety legislation will affect you
You will also get to try out different mechanical devices such as:
- tirfor winches
- mechanical wedges
before you think about buying them and find you do not like them or prefer one over the other. A fantastic chance to try before you buy!
Also, a huge bonus for you is that you can hire one of our chainsaws at no extra cost for the tree felling course – how amazing is that!
Bear in mind that this course is physically demanding and requires the carrying of equipment in woodland and forest environment. You will have to carry your kit and equipment.
Please ensure you already have the chainsaw maintenance, cross cutting (CS30) and felling and processing of small trees up to 380mm (CS31) qualification before applying for this unit.
To allow you to fell medium sized trees over 380mm in diameter, you must have first completed the above units. You can then work your way up to the next unit.
Many of you are already actively using chainsaws. However, you may have discovered that as a professional operator you need a certificate of competence. To enable you to carry on doing so.
You may have been asked by:
- your employer
- or a new contract opportunity to demonstrate competence through certification
- your farm assurance body
Whether you could be new to the job or have been doing it for over 40 years and things have changed. If so and you are faced with having to gain your chainsaw qualifications have you been:
- struggling to find the right fit in terms of a training provider?
- confused by all the names, numbers and acronyms for the land based courses that are available to you?
- worried you will get it wrong or waste your hard-earned money?
- concerned that it will feel like going back to school?
- looking to gain a qualification to continue with jobs because legislation has changed?
- offered a new and exciting contract, but need another ticket/qualification to seal the deal?
Then we can help you!
No matter which sector you are coming from, and the level of experience. We can work with you to understand your training needs. To tailor a programme and provide courses that will be suitable for you.
Providing award-winning training through tailored, flexible, friendly, approachable trainers and assessors.
All courses are run in small groups. To ensure you have as much time as needed to learn and experience the requirements for the assessments. If you chose to take them. Trainers and assessors are experienced, friendly, and approachable.
Finally, as with all Lowe Maintenance courses, you get support and advice via email or on the phone. If you need it in the future. Just because you’ve completed the course doesn’t mean you can’t get in touch if you need more information or guidance.
Other courses of interest to you
Thanks Phil & Demelza.
Clearly it is always best to bring your own chainsaw to the course if you have one so that you learn to maintain your own.
But no , we can provide the chainsaw, sharpening kit, felling bar at no extra cost. However, this is under the provisio that any damages and/or losses are replaced.
We do apprecaite the catch 22, how do you know what to buy you’ve not done the course yet.
Alkylate fuel is very good and can be left for a long time. However, if you are using a self-mix two-stroke fuel, don’t leave it too long as it can separate. This is not good for the cylinder head.
No, it’s not a matter of throwing wood about, you use your head and think problems through or seek assistance if required.
There is a cant hook on the felling bar and tongs are available to limit arm strain when moving logs. As a result, both are very handy to have in the working environment.
- chainsaw maintenance and cross cutting 20-03 (formally CS30)
- felling and processing trees up to 380mm 20-04 (formally CS31)
The certificate is for 380mm and above so potentially you can cut monsters after the course. However, it takes time to build up the knowledge to cut very big trees. A tree is not measured at ground level but at chest height. So a tree 380mm at chest height could be a nice bit of wood to deal with. The reason we measure at chest height is that the base flairs and looks a lot wider then it really is.
The minimum guide bar size for the course is 18inch this will give you plenty of bar length to achieve the type of cuts we will use. As a result, it will make it easier to cross-cut the stem and deal with anything else that crops up.
- helmet with ear defenders and a visor (in date)
- protective chainsaw gloves
- chainsaw trousers
- chainsaw boots or wellies
- personal first aid kit
- felling bar
- chainsaw with a bar no larger than 18 inch
- relevant sharpening kit
Yes, however, when you are a competent operator your insurance may let you modify your dress code in accordance with HSE.
For the assessment process it is required to wear chainsaw protective gloves.
There is no restriction on bar and chainsaw size it’s down to being able to handle it safely. Of course bigger chainsaws are heavier and longer bars are harder to control. However, it is all down to getting the best tool for the job and being able to safely control it.
Anyone who uses chainsaws as a professional must have certificates of competence to be insured
Unfortunately, not, because there are many different situatuls and scenarios in using chiansaws. So it is not possible to just have one ticket to cover everything.
The size of the timber you will be dealing with will make it very hard to stack as it will be cut to product lengths. Along with manual handling, regulations will not let you break yourself just for a course. What you do in your own working environment is up to you but best practice is to use a mechanical means to stack the timber.
The size of trees makes it harder to twist out a tree using a felling bar. Therefore, winches are used in the hung-up part of the course. We provide the winch for the course so you know it will be the right size and type needed.
Yes, and very well. The chainsaws are now much lighter, the equipment is much more user friendly and most women are tough. They are also very good at thinking a problem through and not just fighting with the tree.
Of course you should be wearing a helmet to limit injury from falling objects. Purpose brought helmets have combined ear defenders and mesh visor which are compatible so offer the right level of protection.
If when you are cross-cutting and the wood coming from the chain is like dust not little square chips or you find you are having to push harder on the saw to cut. Then it is time to look at how sharp your chain is.
If you cut close to the ground, you maximise the amount of wood extracted.
Furthermore, it is also safer to cut close to the floor if anything goes wrong the more of you that is below the hinge then the more gets hurt. Industry-standard would also encourage you to cut as close to the ground too, high cuts could result in lost future work.
If a tree you fell does not fall to the ground but gets stuck in a neighbouring tree, it is called a hung-up tree.
If you wish to bring a winch with you on our course, you will need one with a straight line pull of 1600kg. However, we do provide them for the courses if you haven’t bought one already. We recommended waiting until you have done the course so you have a better idea of what is available and what you like and don’t like.
The strongest muscle you have is the one between your ears (brain). If you can think through the problem, then these days, with the equipment to hand, you don’t need to be built like a brick privy. The more tree work you do then physically you will start to develop.
Yes, it’s good practice to tidy the brash into designated rows or piles and keep the forest floor as easy to move around as possible. This is all part of having a good reputation too. If you leave sites in a mess you could be limiting future work.
If you did the City and Guilds tickets and you still have your certificates, then yes, they should still stand. If you can be found on the City and Guilds system, have copies of certificates or your ID card number.
Ideally, store the chainsaw with the chain brake on due to the nature of the brake spring and the force it is left under when the brake is off.
Softwood is mainly pines, whereas the term hardwood is mainly used to describe a broadleaf tree-like beech, oak etc. As a result, there are slightly different techniques for processing the timber which you will be made aware of during your training.
Tidy, stacks with the butts to one end in case a chipper is going to be used later. Besides, the last thing you want to be doing is fighting with the brash pile because it was badly stacked.
It’s the forces that can build up in a piece of wood. If you take a broom handle and bridge it across two points, then put a bit of weight in the middle you will see the handle bend. The fibres at the bottom of the handle are being stretched or put under tension and the fibres at the top are being compressed. However, with a tree, it’s not quite as easy to read, however, if you get it right you are less likely to get your chainsaw stuck!
Yes, you can. Although we advise people to go out and hone your up to 380mm skills before you go for above 380mm. There has to be a gap so you can get used to working with the saw and moving timber, then when you feel it is right you can go for the above 380mm.
There is no set height, it is down to diameter at chest not how tall. A plantation grown tree can be very tall and thin whereas an open-grown tree can be very broad and short each tree is different.